Perfume - classification |
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Perfume, Classification of Fragrances The first comprehensive method of classifying the fragrances of perfume ingredients was proposed by Rimmel at the end of the 19th century. In his Book of Perfumes lie set out a table identifying 18 different representative types of fragrance, grouping each into a class with other materials having a similar fragrance. His classification, slightly modified to accord with later terminology, was as follows:
Rimmel's system has remained a useful method of fragrance classification ever since though increasingly limited in value as new fragrances, especially synthetic ones, have come into use. Piesse attempted to introduce an entirely different concept under which the odours were arranged on a basis of musical notes; by this he held that a perfumer could achieve an effective bouquet of fragrance by choosing odours which corresponded to a harmonious chord in music. The sysl eta no longer pertains, but the notion of fragrances as musical notes has remained . Various other attempts at more satisfactory methods of classification have been made since, ending with a table produced by W.A. Poucher setting out perfume materials against a scale of 100 according to measurements of their evaporation rates. This has the merit of being divisible into three sections, indicating fragrances suitable for the top, middle and lower notes of a perfume. Thus niaouli (1), the fastest evaporating of all perfume materials, appears with mandarin (2), coriander (3), lavender (4), bergamot (6), spike lavender (9), galbanum oil, kuromoji, lovage and nutmeg (11), and lemongrass, mimosa absolute and palma rosa (14) in the part of the scale listing fragrances suitable for 'top notes'. The 'middle note' fragrances are rated from 15 to 69, Poucher's list including rose otto, dill and storax oil (15), calamus, marjoram, orris absolute and violet leaves absolute (18), clove (22), geranium, jonquil absolute and ylang-ylang (24), orange flower absolute (31) and rose, tuberose and jasmine absolutes (43). 'Base note' fragrances rate from 70 to 100, with galbanum and opoponax resins at 90, angelica at 94 and, at 100, many of the important ingredients used as fixatives, such as ambergris, balsam of Peru, benzoin, costus, coumarin, labdanum, oak moss, olibanum (frankincense), patchouli, pimento, sandalwood, storax resin, tonka and vetiver. Space does not permit Poucher's table to be reproduced in full.
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